Look beyond the front
Start with the whole garment in good light. Check the shape, colour and how the fabric hangs. Then turn it around and, where possible, look inside. Wear often collects at underarms, collars, cuffs, pocket edges and the inner thighs of trousers. A clean front photograph does not show those areas.
Look for thinning as well as visible holes. Hold a section gently to the light without pulling it. Compare the fabric in a high-friction area with an area that receives less use. A loose stitch may be straightforward to assess; a broad patch of weakened fabric can involve a different repair. If you are unsure, do not assume a tailor can make every problem disappear.
Try the working parts
Close the zip, fasten the buttons and check that the corresponding buttonholes are intact. Look for missing belts, detachable collars or straps that may have been part of the original design. An incomplete garment can still work, but it should be a deliberate choice rather than a discovery at home.
Check the lining separately. It can catch at a sleeve, split near a seam or restrict movement even when the outer fabric looks sound. Feel the pockets for holes and inspect their edges. If the garment has been altered, compare both sides and look at the hem allowance where it is visible. An old size label may tell you very little about the current fit.
Inspect a jacket as several connected parts
For a jacket, begin at the collar and move down one side at a time. Look at the lapel edge, the front fastening and the pocket opening. Compare areas exposed to handling with the fabric under a lapel or inside a fold. A small change in colour may be acceptable to you, but it is easier to judge when you have noticed it deliberately.
Lift a sleeve gently and inspect the underarm and lining. Check the cuff for abrasion and look at any decorative buttons. If a button is missing, ask whether a spare exists before assuming an exact replacement will be easy. A set of unusual buttons can be part of the appeal of the jacket, and replacing all of them changes both the cost and the appearance.
Try the closure and move in the jacket if the setting allows. Do not use the label as the only fit test. A previous owner may have altered the waist, sleeve or length. Look for an uneven hem, a lining that pulls or a seam that no longer lies smoothly. These signs do not automatically rule the jacket out, but they give you questions for the seller or an alterations professional.
If the purchase is online, ask for photographs of the specific areas you would inspect in person. A seller's answer may be incomplete because they have not looked there, rather than because the item is necessarily damaged. Decide how much uncertainty you are comfortable accepting before paying. A rare find can be appealing without becoming an obligation to take on every unknown repair.
Ask for the detail you cannot see
When buying online, request focused photographs and measurements. “Could you show the inside underarm seams?” is more useful than “Is it in good condition?” Ask about an uncertain mark, a missing care label or a fastening shown only from a distance. Descriptions such as vintage or pre-loved do not establish the condition of an individual item.
Think about cleaning before purchase. Follow any intact care instructions and seek professional advice for an unfamiliar or delicate piece. A smell or stain is not a guaranteed home project, and covering it with fragrance does not solve the underlying issue.
Finally, decide whether you want the garment as it is or only as an imagined restoration. A small repair can be worthwhile when the fit and fabric appeal to you. If there are several uncertainties, price alone may not compensate for the work. Leave room in the decision for your available time, skill and willingness to follow through.
